We will inform you regularly about our current projects, special offers, and everything worth knowing when it comes to your yard.
Man it's hot in Fort Smith! Anyone smell grass burning? When it's a million degrees outside, with a heat index of a million and ten degrees, 15-20 minutes per zone, per day, is not going to cut it folks. You need to make sure you are watering to a depth of 4 to 6 inches each time you water your grass. If not, you're wasting a lot of water. Your bermuda is going to require between 1-1.5" of water per week.....Some super sunny areas may require even more. You will need between 30 minutes-1 hour, per zone, in order to accomplish this with most irrigation systems. A great way to figure this out is to put a flat container in your yard, then run your irrigation for 1 hour in that zone. Then just measure the water in the pan. I recommend 30-45 minutes, per turf zone, 3-4 days per week. Your water bill might be a little high, but not as high as the bill you would get from us to replace your yard. Oh, I almost forgot, we also lay sod. LOL
Mowing: Bermudagrass performs best when mowed between .75 and 2.5 inches. Begin mowing as soon as the lawn turns green in spring. Always leave the clippings on the lawn in a practice called 'grass-cycling'. Grass clippings decompose quickly and do not contribute to thatch. If prolonged rain or other factors prevent frequent mowing and clippings begin to clump, they can be collected and used as mulch.
Fertilizing: Apply ½ to 1 pound of nitrogen (N) per 1,000 square feet several weeks after complete green-up. Submit a soil sample to determine nutrient and lime requirements. In the absence of a soil test, use a slow-release, complete nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium (N-P-K) turf fertilizer with a 4-1-2 ratio such as16-4-8. Apply lime if suggested.
To determine the amount of product needed to apply 1 pound of N per 1,000 square feet, divide 100 by the first number in the fertilizer ratio. For example, for a 16-4-8 fertilizer, divide 100 by 16. The result is 6.25 pounds of fertilizer per 1,000 square feet (100/16 = 6.25 of 16-4-8).
Irrigation: As a general rule, irrigate when 30 to 50 percent of the lawn shows sign of wilt. Probe with a screwdriver to ensure the top 4 to 6 inches of soil are moist following irrigation. Do not irrigate again until the lawn shows sign of wilt. In general, bermudagrass needs a total weekly application of about 1 to 1 ¼ inches of water. Sandy soils often require more frequent watering, for example, ¾-inch of water every third or fourth day.
Weed Control: Apply preemergence herbicides to control summer annual weeds when forsythia or redbuds are in full bloom. Apply postemergence herbicides in May as needed to control summer annual and perennial broadleaf weeds. Be sure that the product is labeled for use on bermudagrass. Postemergence herbicides are applied when weeds are present, and at least three weeks after the lawn has greened up.
Mowing: Bermudagrass performs best when mowed between ¾ and 1½ inches.
Fertilizing: Apply ½ to 1 pound of N per 1,000 square feet every 4 to 8 weeks.
Irrigation: As a general rule, irrigate when 30 to 50% of the lawn shows sign of wilt. In general, bermudagrass needs a total weekly application of about 1 to 1¼ inches of water.
Insect Control: August is the best time to control white grubs because they are small and close to the soil surface. Mole crickets will begin to hatch in June. Use a soap flush technique to determine if mole crickets are present.
Weed Control: Apply postemergence herbicides as needed to control summer annual and perennial weeds.
Mowing: Mow the lawn between ¾ and 1½ inches until several weeks before the first expected frost. Raise the mowing height by ½ inch as winter approaches if the lawn will not be overseeded. Mowing height is usually raised in mid to late September in the Piedmont and early October in other areas.
Fertilization: In September, if a soil test reports deficient potassium (K) levels, apply 1 pound of potash (K2O) per 1000 square feet, using muriate of potash (0-0-60), potassium sulfate (0-0-50), or Sul-Po-Mag (0-0-22).
Irrigation: Irrigate when 30 to 50% of the lawn shows sign of wilt. In general, bermudagrass needs a weekly application of about 1 to 1¼ inches of water. Dormant bermudagrass may need to be watered periodically when dry, warm, windy weather prevails.
Weed Control: Apply preemergence or postemergence herbicides as needed to control winter annual and perennial broadleaf weeds. Preemergence herbicides are most effective when applied as nighttime temperatures drop into the upper 50s. Preemergence herbicides do not control existing perennial weeds. Apply postemergence herbicides only when weeds are present. Do not apply herbicides designed to control annual bluegrass if the lawn is to be overseeded with ryegrass.
Insect Control: Continue to monitor for white grubs and control if necessary.
Overseeding: Overseeding with ryegrass for winter color should be done in mid September in mountain and Piedmont areas, and early October in coastal areas.
Mowing: Mow overseeded bermudagrass at 1 inch before the grass gets taller than 1½ inches. Do not collect the clippings unless they accumulate heavily on the surface. Dormant bermudagrass that has not been overseeded need not be mowed.
Overseed Fertilization: Do not fertilize bermudagrass that has not been overseeded. Apply ½ pound of N per 1,000 square feet in December and February to overseeded bermudagrass.
Irrigation: Dormant bermudagrass may have to be watered periodically to prevent desiccation, especially when warm, windy weather prevails. Watering is particularly important for lawns that have been overseeded.
Weed Control: Apply broadleaf herbicides as needed to control winter weeds such as chickweed, henbit, and hop clover. Selective herbicides can be applied in November or December to lawns that have not been overseeded to control annual bluegrass (Poa annua) and several winter annual broadleaf weeds.
The azaleas are blooming and the knock outs are about ready to pop here in Fort Smith. You know what that means! It's time to cut some grass and spread some mulch! I'd like to share a few tips on both of these topics. For all of you bermuda growers out there, remember to only take the top one third of the grass off on each cutting. This will keep your grass looking full and healthy and promote runners to help cover bare areas. This can be accomplished by mowing every 7-10 days during the growing season. Mow a test strip in a less visible area and adjust your deck height if needed. For all of the mulchers out there, 3" depth is the magic number for hardwood mulch and typically 1 cubic yard of mulch will cover about 100 square feet 3" deep. The 3" depth will get you the proper coverage to help shade out weeds without being too deep around the base of your shrubs. Be sure to go a little thinner in areas where annual flowers will be planted. If you are buying in bulk I would highly recommend investing in a mulch fork. This will make your life much easier than trying to use a shovel. Buying in bags makes it easier to transport and allows you to place the bags out in the beds to ensure proper coverage. This can be a little more expensive than buying in bulk, but it does make the job easier not having to wheelbarrow all of the loads to the beds for spreading.
Is it Bad to Prune Shrubs in Hot Weather?: The answer is yes and no....but mostly yes. Hot summer months here in Arkansas, like most of us already know, can be brutal. When temperatures are consistently surpassing 100 degrees our plants are already under a significant amount of stress. Hacking away at shrubs during these stressful times is not going to produce positive results. That being said, a light trimming in July or August to get the stragglers isn’t going to make or break an otherwise healthy shrub, but major trimming should be postponed until spring or fall in order to keep our plants healthy. More to come on pruning specific plants. Thanks for reading!
Pinnacle is off to a busy start of the season with mowing, lanscaping and weed control. Call today to see how we can help you get your lawn and landscaping started off right this spring!!
Just finished the Taco Bueno job! Looks great and Taco Bueno is officially open as of today!! Go check it out!